details on Sarajevo

So I figured I should explain to you all a little bit why I find Sarajevo so magic.

There is a special feeling here, something I felt as soon as I stepped onto the cobble stones of the old turquish quarter. The sun was setting on the town and shining on the mosques and surrounding mountain houses. There is a quiet, peaceful feel to the town, something like the calm after the storm I guess you could say. People are incredibly receptive and friendly here and the fact that I speak Bosnian puts a smile on everyone's face. "Dobro pricas bosansko!"

Yesterday Renee and I went on a small tour organized by one of the guys that works in the youth hostel. We were taken to the site of the Sarajevo tunnel, the tunnel that litterallly saved citizens of Sarajevo. Our guide had personally used this tunnel 800 metre long, 1.6 metres high and 1 metre tunnel to get food and provisions. On this day, July 11th 1995 arround 8000 Bosniaks (Muslim Bosnians) were executed by the Serbian nationalist army, and bodies are still being found today. When I think of what these people have been through, it gives me chills down my spine. This down definetely has a spirit and one feels it right away. I went inside a mosque today and it was great. There is so much room to breathe in there. I am going to go to a service tonight -- I want to feel what the call to prayer and live it personally. I am excited to go to Turkey as well! This is just a taste!

I have been treating myself to cevapcicis and bureks, local delicacies. Went to a shisha cafe today and enjoyed some apple tobacco, and have made many trips to the local fountains and water sources. According to the legend, if you drink from one of the many sources of water inside the city, you will return someday. I must have had about 2 litres of it already! This is quite possibly my favorite city so far and has definetely left a permanent impression on me.

Please come to Sarajevo!

Sarajevo afternoon

Sarajevo afternoon
Originally uploaded by borderlys.

I LOVE SARAJEVO!
I LOVE SARAJEVO!
I LOVE SARAJEVO!

U & me baby just weren't meant to be.....

I have a love hate relationship with my Ipod. I love it so much but every time I need it it's not there for me! It always stops working and breaks down on me. I jhave recently gotten back together with it and have put tons of new music onto it (thanks Skye!) but JUST when I was starting to get excited about having it again and being reunited with my music, it broke down on me again (that little bastard). I guess I just don't want to accept that it's over and I keep clinging onto the idea that it just might work again. My problem is that I have trouble moving on and letting go, so knowing myself, I am going to keep on lugging that non functional Ipod with me the rest of the way in the hopes that wil will one day work again and carry along the way since I just can't part with it.

The two faces of Prague

It's kind of a freaky thing to come to a new city through the rougher part of town after a 6 hour train ride. The park behind the main train station is an area where "questionable caracters", as the lonely planet calls them, hang out. There was still day light but it was on it's way out and walking arround with a big back pack and some other random bags and things didn't quite seem to fit into the decor. Moments after a feeble attempt to get my bearings, my sister and I wanted to walk to the hostel, since the flyer says it's a 10 minute walk to the next metro station, followed by a 5 minute walk from there to the hostel. "We can manage that, tough girls that we are" Renee and I tell ourselves. So we go to ask the kind lady at the information desk how to walk to Florence bus station since the lonely planet map is crap and the hostel flyer is difficult to read. "Just take the metro", she says, "yes, but how can we walk there?" we ask again. "Just take the metro!". We turn and face each other "uh, I guess we're taking the metro...." So we take the metro and figure we can walk the remaning 5 minutes to the hostel. We turn the street away from the metro and see some paramedics calmly looking down. What could this be?, Renee and I wonder. Turns out it's a dead man, who has possibly died of an overdose...whatever it was, he seemed to have left this world in a peaceful state.

So we finally get to the grafiti covered youth hostel, all we want is a shower from our half hour trek, long train ride and short morning where showering had not been an option. (Sleep was more important at that point in time).

This morning, however, my memory of Prague and last night's introduction did not do me justice! Renee and I walked about Prague's old quarter, treated ourselves to a cheap boat tour, went up to the caslte, down golden lane and dragged our heavy feet back to the hostel where we bought ourselves a record cheap meal. 53 Krones later (1 Candadian dollar is 20 Krones) we had enough to make a small but delicious salad....

All I can say is taht it's not taking that long for me to get back into the groove of backpacking, after a month long break of being with friends in Serbia and Germany!

Prague Castle!

Prague Castle!
Originally uploaded by borderlys.

Ok. Apparently some people DO read my blog! This has consequently instilled in me the need to produce a quality product! He he...really though, so this is what's going in with me. Renee got to Berlin for the world cup, as you know, afterwhich we went to Braunschweig to spend some time with my good girlfriend Sonja...after too little sleep there and too much partying we headed off to Gifhorn for a short stop at Pahlmann's 25th wedding anniversary. More beer, less sleep. After a groggy train ride to Prague we spent the whole day walking arround the old part of town the Charles bridge, seeing the castle, golden lane etc. There is a frustratingly big international crowd here though...Obviously my sister and I weren't the only ones to notice how close Prague is to Berlin......

Tomorrow we are off to the Ossuary in a UNESCO world heritage listed town so I am pretty excited! After the Czech Republic we are heading out to Vienna for Canada day -- in case I don't update anything before then, have a good one guys!

Right time, right place

World Cur Fans
Originally uploaded by borderlys.

As most of you know, the world cup is happening right now in cities all over Germany, so I thought it would be cool to pop by and check out the action. So after a ridiculously long and hot train ride back to Serbia (couldn't go through Macedonia again because Canadians need a visa! ARGH) I made it to Belgrade and Novi becej where I took things easy for a few days. Headed back up to Budapest and flew to Berlin where I met with Gwen, Marie-Pier and Julia. My sister just got here and all I can say is "jetzt geht's los!" (now we're getting started!) She's still all jet lagged and tired but she's going to muster up the energy to go shopping today (after all, you can't be in Germany without going to H&M) and then hitting up a raggae show in a park for the games tonight.

fare thee well

the view
Originally uploaded by borderlys.

Well I can't believe I am actually leaving Greece! It feels like I have been here forever, but I could VERY easily stay here for ever! The people I have met have been so great -- Greek hospitality is something we could all learn from! So now, when the Hellens (Greeks) exagerate about a place being the MOST beautiful in the whole entire world, or the most amazing in ALL of Europe, or the oldest in the universe, etc. I am tempted to believe them! Sorry, that's sort of an inside because apparently the Greeks tend to ..."embellish" things a bit. Really though, it's a beautiful country, the people are great, the food is oh-so-tasty, the weather is great, etc. what's not to like?!

Artichoke hearts and other stories

Ios
Originally uploaded by borderlys.

...if mainland Greece wasn't beautiful enough, the islands are pure magic! First stop was Ios, where I spent two days simply relaxing. Fred and I rented a scooter the second day and rode arround the island. We finally got to a beach where the only two other people on the island were two Austrians who had just attended the European social forum (http://www.socialforum-media.gr/english_index.htm) ... why I didn't participate still baffles me since the topics were on development and social action, etc. So we feasted together on boiled artichokes and dip and killer rice (with Ayaveda spices, something I want to look into when I get back. Indian food that caters to your type and work at creating balance inside you). So the girl, Astrid, told me about Master's programms in Norway, sice she also happened to be studying international development in Vienna.

Next up, Santorini. Just look at the photos on snapfish and 'nuff said. We went to the volcano and later watched the sunset from Oia, Fred, Philipp (a guy from Quebec we met) and I.

Beautiful as it was, the second day I felt the wind of departure nonetheless and decided to set sail earlier than planned. I set out to Crete where I was greeted by my couchsurfing hosts, Spilios and Kostas. Had a blast riding around Hania with Spilios on his motorbike and going for coffee with some friends. I hit up the Samaria gorge, which was really beautiful....

Also, I WENT SCUBA DIVING TODAY! :D it was awesome and I did alright for myself, considering I hadn't gone in about 2 two years!

the Parthenon, baby!

the Parthenon, baby!
Originally uploaded by borderlys.

yeah, if my smile is this big it's cause it's that cool! I love Athens and I love Greece! (only thing that doesn't, is my wallet.....)

scary-burning-face-fever

adam says:
so what will you ask the oracle?
adam says:
you have to ask it something
adam says:
or it's like going to a water park and not getting wet
Lisa - in Albania! says:
I will ask it what the purpose is behind my being so sick
adam says:
hehehehehe
Lisa - in Albania! says:
(mad face)
Lisa - in Albania! says:
seriously
adam says:
well you can't shout at it
Lisa - in Albania! says:
I had a CRAZY fever!
Lisa - in Albania! says:
haha
Lisa - in Albania! says:
ok I wont
adam says:
did you go to the doctor?
Lisa - in Albania! says:
yeah
Lisa - in Albania! says:
I needed anitbiotics SO bad
Lisa - in Albania! says:
and they are helping
Lisa - in Albania! says:
but I am still in quit a bit of pain
adam says:
They say when you shake hands with a greek you're supposed to count your fingers afterwards
Lisa - in Albania! says:
I guessit's a good thing cause it shuts me up for a while!
adam says:
i wonder what you're supposed to do after you expose your throat
adam says:
i'm sorry you're in pain here's a kitty to cheer you up
Lisa - in Albania! says:
aww thanks
Lisa - in Albania! says:
why, I feel better already!
adam says:
how many days have you been this sick
Lisa - in Albania! says:
well, about 4
adam says:
o that bites
Lisa - in Albania! says:
the 1st wasnt so bad
Lisa - in Albania! says:
then the 2nd is when I fell in the river and had scary- burning-face-fever, the 3rd I went to the doctors and today I am still sore
adam says:
tell me more about the river event
adam says:
i can't stop laughing at the phrase "scary-burning-face-feaver"
adam says:
sorry
Lisa - in Albania! says:
lol
adam says:
so the river
Lisa - in Albania! says:
well
Lisa - in Albania! says:
I was kind of sick, but decided to go out and treck the Vikos gorge with this guy I am travelling with for a bit, Fred
adam says:
the french guy
adam says:
right
Lisa - in Albania! says:
so we searched for the trail (it's the deepest gorge in the WORLD! over 900m)
adam says:
and you fell down it!
Lisa - in Albania! says:
so despite my uncanny femail instincts telling me walking through the river and through trees and stone was not a trail
Lisa - in Albania! says:
he insisted on trying to cross the river
Lisa - in Albania! says:
so I followed along
adam says:
its it a really big strong river?
Lisa - in Albania! says:
haha, no I didnt fall DOWN the gorge
Lisa - in Albania! says:
well, it had a current, but it was moreso that the rocks were really slippery
Lisa - in Albania! says:
he fell in too, only he didnt have mild strep when he set out on the treck
adam says:
so did the river sweep you down
Lisa - in Albania! says:
so after 3 hours of walking arround with wet feet (and ass if you were me)
Lisa - in Albania! says:
no
Lisa - in Albania! says:
but it pissed me off all right
adam says:
so your head didn't go under
adam says:
hahahahaha
Lisa - in Albania! says:
no
Lisa - in Albania! says:

Lisa - in Albania! says:
and then we had to cross it AGAIN!
adam says:
i think i'd like to hear this from you better but this written version is pretty good
Lisa - in Albania! says:
and that wasnt even the ight place to cross
adam says:
ha
Lisa - in Albania! says:
yeah, you'd get the faces to accompany it!
Lisa - in Albania! says:
so we came to sort of cliff rocks
Lisa - in Albania! says:
it was SOO SKETCHY!
Lisa - in Albania! says:
I wish I had taken a picture
adam says:
hahahah
adam says:
me too
Lisa - in Albania! says:
cause if we had fallen from that, one of us would surely have died. I am convinced that would have been me
adam says:
fun
adam says:
now you have a story
Lisa - in Albania! says:
needless to say, I was putting to excellent use the more colourful side of my vocabulary
Lisa - in Albania! says:
....
Lisa - in Albania! says:
sure do!
adam says:
were you really mad?
Lisa - in Albania! says:
nah
Lisa - in Albania! says:
well, sometimes
Lisa - in Albania! says:
cause it was scary!
Lisa - in Albania! says:
and I was cursing myself for not listening to myself!
adam says:
yeah that's the worst
adam says:
christopher got us into all sorts of trouble
Lisa - in Albania! says:
but whatever we made it safe...but we were seriously traversing the rocks like rock climbers
adam says:
but the thing is i let him do the leading on our adventures because he always gets us out of the trouble too
Lisa - in Albania! says:
until we got to the safe part
Lisa - in Albania! says:
haha
Lisa - in Albania! says:
well thats; good!
adam says:
but then i was the one that went to jail
Lisa - in Albania! says:
as long as he gets you out of it
adam says:
in morocco not him
Lisa - in Albania! says:
oh yeha!?
Lisa - in Albania! says:
what happened?
adam says:
when you get to canada you can read it on my myspace account
Lisa - in Albania! says:
aah!
Lisa - in Albania! says:
yes!
adam says:
we offended islam
Lisa - in Albania! says:
I guess I should write about scary-burning-face-fever on my blog
Lisa - in Albania! says:
oh yeah?!
adam says:
and were wearing our cool white suits
Lisa - in Albania! says:
yeah, how is that offensive to islam>?
adam says:
just cut and paste this conversation
Lisa - in Albania! says:
lol
adam says:
BECAUSE WE WERE TOO COOL FOR SCHOOL
Lisa - in Albania! says:
good idea!
Lisa - in Albania! says:
I am going to do taht now actually....

OH MY GOD. I just had THE best meal of my life! Why, you ask, was this simple little tortellini dish so blissful?!? Well my friends, for the past 2 days I have been inflicted with a severe case of "acute tonsilitous" (strep throat) and it's so painful that I can't eat. It all started...well I don't know when it started exactly. Fred and I chilled out in Cofu for a few days after having a wicked time in Albania -- Fred taught some Gypsy kids how to juggle (I took pictures) through the American Peace Corps. We sort of did a Peace Corps shuffle in Albania and it was great hanging out with them and seeing them work on community development projects and stuff....it made me want to look into CIDA internships again...

So anyway, Albania turned out to be an extremely friendly country! People were always willing to help us and I felt safe the whole time I was there! Just don't get me started on the bus system - oh wait - there is none. So we managed to take the boat to Cofu Greece, after witnessing and intense and colourful (to say the least!) difference of opinons between the two ferry lines and the weater was great! Stayed in a Youth Hostel called the Sunrock really good price, breakfast and supper included and it's right by the beach! The weather was great, probably like 27 degrees so I got some son tanning in.

So, remember how I was talking about strep throat? WELL. From Corfu we had to hitchike to Monodendri since there are only two busses a week....So cars were passing by and passing by, finally a Priest came to pick us up and dropped us off in the village since it was close to his -- this means he made a 15km detour for us! So, from the humid beach to dryer, colder mountain air = no good. Also, falling in the river on a treck that would lead us nowhere the next day certainly did not help. That's when the fever set in. Worse thing is, we only found the path to the Vikos gorge AFTER wandering arround for 3 hours cold and wet in the trees and rocks...so for two days now I have not been able to swallow without searing pain shooting throughout my body. I have been hungry for two days and pretty much unable to eat...but there is hope! I went to the doctor's today, and although he didn't prescribe anything for the pain, whatever pills he got me taking seem to helping a bit.

Alors, afin de boucler la boucle: right now, I just had the best meal of my life.

Twisted Tirana

After a groggy night on the bus from Struga (F.Y.R. of Macedonia) Fred and I got into Tirana at about 5 am. We didn't have a CLUE where we were cause the terminal stop is more like a fruit stand than anything, a nice taxi driver offered us a ride. Being a traveller I am a bit weary of friendly taxi drivers, I am sure you can understand why, but this guy spoke great English since he worked in London for a few years. So we go for coffee at his brother's cafe and the guy pulls out this crazy story about how he was shot and had to escape to London but got denied residency. Here's a crazy unrelated fact : Albania has the most violent mafia in all of Europe. That being said, all the people we haved talked to so far and have met are really great, super generous and really friendly.

So, Tirana is a really intersting city. There aren't necessarily that many things to see but it's really interesting to look at the architechture. The buildings have odd color combinations, the centre is a flat, wide open (hello communism?!) area with huge pot holes, no lanes on the streets (and no pedestrian crossings either, for that matter!) and people walking and driving in everywhich directly. It's a beautiful mess and I love it.

Macedonia sweet Macedonia!

ohrid
Originally uploaded by borderlys.

*sigh* I am so completely in love with Macedonia! The people I have met so far have an unsurpassed sense of hospitality, the countryside is eye-popping, jaw-dropping, stop-you-mid-breath beautiful. The call to prayer in the afternoon sun, orthodox priests walking down the street next to the farmer with his goats in the centre of town...

In Prilep I stayed with amazing couchsurfing hosts who really went out of their way to show me arround. I originally thought I would stay 2 days and spend 4-5! On the last day we hiked up to a MOnastary in the hills next to the city and slept there over night and it was so soothing. Then in Struga Fred (from France) and I biked to Ohrid (only about 15 kilometres) and walked up to the fortress where we sat and had lunch...fresh bread and local cheese with some cucumbers and sausage...it was a little slice of heaven. I did manage to burn one side of my face but it was well worth it! Later that night we wound up in some birthday party in the albanian community in Struga...it was crazy! People we so friendly, and so curious, and so proud....I really wish I didn't have to leave the country tomorrow (yes, canadians need a visa ?!?!) but I have a newfound interest in Albania, having seen such warmth in the Albanians last night...

Monk

Monk
Originally uploaded by borderlys.

As soon as I got to Bulgaria I got a good feeling deep inside...well really, I get that feeling everywhere, but the people I have been meeting and the places I have been going to keep taking my breath away....

Sofia wasn't all that impressive, yet I managed to stay there a good 5 days! Went out snowboarding and Rila monastary and met some great people in the hostels....I am definetely returning mid-May and hopefully going on a kayak/camping trip, if I can pull myself away from Greece on time. I guess we'll see.....

cry baby

Ron, remember those tears of joy we were talking about?

Well I was sitting in the bus from Veliko Tarnovo to Plovdiv listening to Groove Armada watching the landscape pass by and my eyes just welled up. It was such a great feelin -- and it had been a while since I had had them too. Just total happiness and innerpeace and love. Just thought I'd let you know.....

Bucarest, pt.II

Well the weather here is absolutely wonderful (in German, I would say herrlich, which really is the most appropriate term I can find) and I had a great day. Adrian (Bobo) from Hospitality Club (like Couchsurfing) that I met over the weekend met me in the morning. So we walked arround and he helped me find the Macedonian embassy and I am really excited! I got my visa for Macedonia! Wooo! So although Tim won't be joining me anymore due to unforseen cicumstances I think I am setting myself up for a pretty good trip. I have only been in Bucarest two days, but I really like the city and the grandiose feeling it gives off. The Casa Poporolui (the house of the people) was absolutely amazing. Apparently Ceaucescu bulldozed many churches and made a large number of people homeles in order to build it and it's 3.2 km "champs-elysee" style bulevard that leads to it. Might I remind you, it's called the house of the PEOPLE! (?!?) some favour he did the people by bulldozing their houses and rendering them homeless.

Being the well informed traveller that I am, I didn't realize that about 80% of the population was Orthodox. (duh.) I find Orthodox churches so esthetic! They are colourful on the outside and spacious on the inside and coverd with paintings and frescoes. Once I can download on flickr again (I have reached my monthly maximum :( ) I will put some pictures on it and my blog again. For now you'll have to bear with my (poorly written) text!

Well, I think it's dinner time and tonight I am going to Vera's place (met her at the couchsurfing party on the weekend) for a drink and some shisha.

Welcome to Bucarest, baby

Well I arrived in Bucarest last night and what a difference from the small mountain towns I was in before. The buldings are huge! MASSIVE! I've never felt so small in all my life! I've also had a shocking first taste of Bucarest and Romania and realize what people were warning me about -- I went to the Canadian embassy to ask about getting a visa for Macedonia and saw a girl there crying. I asked what had happened to her and she told me her back pack got stolen on the night train while she was sleeping...I guess I won't be taking the night train then. After getting all the info I needed to get the visa for Macedonia (now I have to find the Macedonian embassy!) I decided to walk arround in the centre a little bit. So as I was taking a picture of a building, two street kids came up and asked me for money. Of course I said I had none, and of course they kept asking. Since I needed an internet cafe i decided I would give them each 1 lei (like 40 cents or something) if they could show me where an internet cafe was. They did, but I think they were taking me for a ride, cause I never acutally found one. So they kept following me and pointing "that way, that way" and all I wanted was to get away from them but they kept lurking. I figured they were up to something -- I mean, I had seen them checking out my pockets earlier and stuff. Low and behold they both walk up to me, one on each side and ask for money and tell me that they are hungry, and one guy grabs inside my pocket for my camera. So I hit him, told him to fuck off and walked away. While walking away I kept wishing I had decked the shit out of them (you know, adrenalin and all) but I think I traumatized them a bit! I don't think they saw that one comming...little #@$%@%^#%^. Needless to say they stopped following me. Nonetheless, I am happy that I was at least AWARE I was being pickpocketed, and was able to catch them. But I am also kinda freaked out and am glad Tim is going to meet up with me in Sofia so I will at least have a travel buddy. I am in a bit of a weird head space right now, so I am gonna go find me some eats and take some more pictures, figure out where the hell I am in this city and try to enjoy it.

Riding the Carpatians

riding the carpatians
Originally uploaded by borderlys.

Well I have been in Romania for about two weeks now and I am really starting to like it! Every place I have been has had something different to offer -- Timisoara was filled with many an alcoholic beverage, intellectual conversation, getting used to hearing Romanian; Sighisoara was REALLY quiet, as I was the only one in the hostel for the first night; Sibiu was lovely and snow-covered, but muddy as hell; Brasov good eats, good nightlife (happy st. patricks day, by the way - I know what I am doing tonight!) and SNOW and SNOWBOARDING! MY GOD! If I lived here, I would be here at LEAST 3 times a week! The snow was unbelievable, and although I am so sore I can barely walk today, it was WELL worth the trip out there! The next day went to Dracula's Castle and Rasnov, gorgeous citdael ruins in the midst of being rebuilt. Myh trip to Bran and Rasvno was very enchanting as it felt like I had just walked into a Christmas village in the north pole or something. All the houses were covered in snow and it was white everywhere! I loved it! This weekend I am going to some sort of Couchsurfing party in Sinaia, (also in the mountains) afterwhich I should be heading off to Bucuresti for a few days before heading out to Bulgaria.

all aboard!

all aboard!
Originally uploaded by borderlys.

So I just left Serbia yesteday for Romania in which the trip there and first night were a bit on the ridiculous (but good) side! First off, the train station was deserted and in ruins. It kind of made me wonder as if there was even a train but low and behold, a one wagon emtpy train was sitting there, waiting for me, the sole passenger, as the police and border guards looked over my passport. I was in a pretty good mood from the two beers I had had with Darko before coming and was excited about my trip. So when I got on the train it was chat chat chat chat chat with the conductors! When I got to Romania they even asked the Romanian rail workers if It would be ok if I bought my ticket in Euros, since I didn\t have any Lei and there was no time in between trains to go exchange money. I have to say, I quite enjoyed the special attention I got and had a smile going from one ear to the other!

After that I got to Timisoara and was greeted by my couchsurfing host, who has proven to be REALLY interstesting and we have already covered major subjects in our disussions! So we went out for a few beers and this is where the story gets intense...So we're in the place called Papillon and there are some French guys there - excellent - so we get talking and then I have go to pee, which should come as no surprise for those of you who know me and my bladder size! So all of a sudden I am greeted by this new aquaintance in the (unisex) bathroom where I am kindly invited to go back to his appartment with him. ?!?!??!?!? Wha? Did I miss something cause all this time I thought we were just talking!

Then later, a fight breaks out right behind me, I got some blood on my scarf, hair and jeans. Now I don't consider myself to suffer from princess syndrome, but I didnt thing some fat guy's blood on my clothes and body was pretty gross. Aparently that's not typical though, and I believe that. Romanians acutally have a rather peaceful history and that cafe/pub was sort of an artsy cafe that shows films on a screen and is populated with painters, sculpters, photographers, etc. and the people I met last night were really great!
Anyay, so after all this, I got hit on by a drunk hungarian-romanian sculptor that coulndn't formulate a sentance. All in all it was pretty interesting!
After all this, went back to Ron's place to head into some more discussion on a wide array of issues, watch part of a movie that I have yet to finish, and then head off to bed at the wee hours of the morning!

Now I am having coffee with lemon (definetely a first, but I can't say it's bad...) and will be heading out to town shortly.

off to a good start

YARGH! I am an idiot. I haven't even LEFT yet and I have screwed up already. *note to self -- never confuse train times as there is a big difference between 13:45 and 15:45.

Now my fellow couchsurfer will be waiting at the train station for ...well..no once cause I won't be there yet!

Can I still call my self a rookie and pass this off as a rookie mistake?!